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How To Build Finger Strength (SCIENCE EXPLAINED)

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Emil Abrahamsson

Timestamps:
0:00 Dr. Keith Baar
1:00 Two hangs per day
2:58 Background to research
3:58 Groups of climbers
5:18 Results!
8:01 Conclusions
11.50 Limitations
12:40 Next steps

This description will be updated as more information becomes available!

If you wish to help with the prospective study you can answer the VISAC (injury questionaire) here:
https://tinyurl.com/ucdavisclimbingstudy

You can download Crimpd here and search for "Emil" to try the workout yourself:
https://www.crimpd.com/

Link to Ryan Devlin's podcast with me and Keith Baar:
   • MindBlowing Finger Strength Study wi...  

Link to the article:
https://sportsmedicineopen.springero...

Original video "Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day For 30 Days":
   • Hangboard Training 2 Times Per Day Fo...  

Follow up two years later "Hangboard Training 2 times per day for 2 years":
   • Hangboard Training 2 times per day fo...  

Massive thank you to Keith Baar, Natalie Gilmore and Peter Klimek for making this knowledge available to us all.

My gear:
Favorite shoes
MadRock Drone https://madrock.com/collections/shoes...
MadRock Drone CS https://madrock.com/collections/shoes...

Instagram:
  / emil_abrahamsson_  
  / cordiclimbs  

FIlmed by Cordelia Mangia Jansson
Edited by Emil Abrahamsson

posted by bezindawow9