I Don't claim to be a hero or a pro but I'm an educated mechanical person that is sharing his struggle so others don't have to...

I saved $1500 by doing the labor myself! You can too

I'm not paid by any brand and I don't represent these companies. This is what I chose to use based on my budget and reliability research and you may choose differently.

Here is a video of what it takes to remove the snapped off bolts/studs on my 2004 Motor Home/ RV with the Ford F53 Chassis and 6.8 Liter 2 Valve V10(Same motor in many Ford trucks). Keep in mind that this coach has only 34,000 original miles. These bolts are a chore to remove but can be done with lots of patience I watched the other videos on YouTube and tried the other methods on the driver side along with the Lisle kit instructions and none of them seemed to work like they say. I even tried welding a nut to the stud with my mig welder and that also failed under torque. These buggers are in there good!! Here in New England our weather and conditions aren't so perfect for assorted types of Ferrous and NonFerrous Metal...
There are 20 studs total between both sides and I had failed MA inspection because they stated that 5 of them had snapped off 3 passenger side and 2 driver side according to them. The exhaust leak was almost nonexistent from outside or inside the vehicle as I wasn't aware they where even broken prior to inspection. Upon starting this project I had noticed 4 snapped on the driver side and 3 on the passenger side to my surprise as they had miscounted. When I started to remove the manifold on the passenger side I had 2 successfully come out and the rest snapped off at the back of the nut which left a small 3/4" rusted stud exposed to work with. The driver side front 6 bolts came out successfully with little effort and the back 4 where broken off at the back of the nut also leaving a 3/4" stud protruding. I was able to get out 3 more using a stud extractor socket from Snapon and an acetylene BTank but the others failed and broke off. The aluminum heads pull the heat away fairly quick to barely allow for metal expansion and stud removal. The outdoor temps now in March have been near freezing so this factor also doesn't help me heat this large surface area.
My theory on why these bolts snap Aluminum Heads Steel Studs and Nuts Cast Iron Manifolds(Dissimilar Metals Don't always Get Along). These all expand and contract at different rates which puts a lot of stress on these wimpy 8mm uncoated factory studs.

The Lisle kit 68500 comes with
*blue template
*drill guides for 2 valve and another for 3 valve configurations
2HSS 1/8" double sided bits
2HSS 3/16" double sided bits
2 different alignment pins (which I couldn't use due to my broken stud configuration)
1 square type extractor
instructions on paper
Plastic case

This video is intended for reference only and was created solely for information and tips on removing my bolts which I struggled to find correct information on. This was also to show the pros and cons of the AFFORDABLE Lisle kit #68500. I'm not responsible for damage to your motor if you so decide to use this information to solve your stud related problems on your vehicles engine. Beware that drilling to deep will puncture the water jacket in the head and you will leak antifreeze causing further damage.

Be Careful Be Safe Good Luck

Some of the Items used for the project

Harbor Freight Central Pneumatic Air angle drill $35
Ebay Lisle #68500 $80
Ebay Stainless stud and nut $12 kit need 2 kits
Auto Parts Store High Temp copper neverseize
Ebay Mahle Gasket kit V10 $60
Ebay 3 each Cobalt 1/8" ,3/16," 7/32", 17/64" Drill Bits

Stainless Studs and Nuts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford68Lit...

Lisle Tool Kit 68500
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LisleMANIFO...

V10 Mahle Gasket kit
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MahleMS1946...

Drill bit example COBALT
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs18Twi...

Harbor Freight Air Angle Drill
https://www.harborfreight.com/38eig...

Copper Never Seize
https://www.zoro.com/loctiteantisei...